What’s Special About Salzburg?
A view of the fortress from Mirabell Gardens
Salzburg is a small and charming city east of Munich, about 90 minutes away by either car or high speed train.
Salzburg is the birthplace of Mozart, the filming location for The Sound of Music, the site of the annual Salzburg Music Festival, and home to some of the finest pastry shops in Europe. The skyline is dominated by an 11th century fortress overlooking the city, and the pedestrian-only portion of the Old City is full of interesting nooks and crannies to explore.
Nearby, Berchtesgaden is back in Germany, about 15 miles south of Salzburg. Surrounded by the Bavarian Alps, this resort town is a popular destination for both summer hiking and winter skiing. It’s best known for the spectacularly beautiful Königsee (King’s Lake) and the Eagle’s Nest, Hitler’s mountaintop retreat.
You can visit either of these places on a (long) guided day tour from Munich, but if you want to see both, it’s a better use of time to stay in Salzburg for a night or two. Sensory kids always welcome a do-nothing break late in the afternoon - so plan to arrive in Salzburg at dinner time. After you eat, walk over to the Mirabell Gardens, where the do-re-mi song was performed in the Sound of Music. Don’t miss out on the adjacent Troll Garden!
A Busy Day in Salzburg
Quick-dry clothing might come in handy here!
In the morning, start your day by riding the funicular up to the Festung Hohensalzburg (High Salzburg Fortress). Exploring the 900 year old castle will take you about 2 hours. When you’re done, wander through the old city to see the baroque cathedral, St. Peter’s Abbey, a 7th century complex with catacombs, graveyard and chapel, then stop at the gates of Nonnberg Abbey, another Sound of Music setting, where Maria von Trapp was a novice. Stroll down the Goldgasse (Gold Alley) and do some window shopping before lunch.
In the afternoon, make your way to Hellbrunn Palace just outside the city. This was the home of a powerful Archbishop who was something of a prankster. The grounds have a series of trick fountains that will squirt you when you least expect it! It’s a great way to get a lot of laughs while cooling down a little bit. The Sound of Music Gazebo is on the grounds of the palace here as well. You can get to Hellbrunn by public bus 25 or by taxi.
Sensory: It’s hard to avoid getting wet at Hellbrunn Palace. Feel free to bring some dry clothes and change in a restroom if needed.
The one-day Salzburg Card is a good value that saves both time on ticket lines and gives free use of public transportation.
Alpine Adventures in Berchtesgaden
The Berchtesgaden Salt Mine is a fun filled family adventure where you will dress up like a miner, ride the old fashioned mine train, slide down a mine shaft, and take a boat ride on an underground lake in a sparkly crystal cavern. What’s not to like?
You can get here in about 40 minutes on the 840 bus out of Salzburg. It’s best to buy a timed entry ticket in advance. Plan on being here about 2 hours.
Sensory: Lighting is dim inside the mine, some sections have echoes. The temperature underground is about 50 degrees fahrenheit at all times so make sure to have something warm to wear under your miner’s uniform.
Next, take an electric boat ride on the Königsee, possibly the most beautiful mountain lake in Europe. Surrounded by cliffs, with water so clear it’s like a mirror, many people spend a full day hiking in the area and enjoying the views. You can get here from the salt mine on public transportation, but since you would need connecting buses, it’s probably better to just call a taxi. The staff at the Salt Mine ticket desk will be happy to help!
If you plan to visit the Eagle’s Nest in the afternoon, you only have enough have time to take a quick round trip to the Saint Bartholomew’s pilgrimage church, and not make the full boat ride around the lake. Allow 3 hours for this activity including a stop for lunch, more time if you’ll be taking the full ride.
The Eagle’s Nest was a gift to Adolf Hitler from the Nazi party to celebrate his 50th birthday. Hitler never lived there, but used it for important meetings when he wanted to impress his visitors. Hitler’s actual headquarters was destroyed by the Allied Forces at the end of World War II, and all references to his regime have been removed from the Eagle’s Nest.
Today, the Eagle’s Nest is a commercial restaurant with spectacular 360 degree views of the surrounding countryside. It’s an ideal place to celebrate the liberation of Europe from the evil stain of Naziism.
To visit the Eagle’s Nest, you need to take an special bus from the Dokumentation Obersalzburg to the tunnel and elevator at the base of the restaurant. Timed reservations for this bus are strongly recommended.
You can get to the Dokumentation Obersalzburg on bus number 838 from the main train station, or if you’re coming from the Konigsee, it’s more practical to take a taxi. At the Obersalzburg, you will also find a museum that teaches about the darker side of World War II history, to make sure that it is never forgotten and never repeated. This museum is NOT recommended for children under the (developmental) age of 12.
When you’re done, catch the 840 bus from the Berchtesgaden train station back to Salzburg.
If you have a third day
Take the Untersberg Cable Car to the top of the mountain where Julie Andrews sang “The Hills Are Alive” in the opening scene of the Sound of Music. There are great walking trails and a restaurant at the summit. This is a great alternative to the Eagle’s Nest!
Spend a few hours at the Paracelsus Indoor Pool and Sauna Complex near Mirabell Gardens.
Visit the Salzburg Zoo, or attend a Mozart Concert.
If you’re a true fan, take the official Sound of Music half day bus tour.
Where to Stay in Salzburg
We loved the Arte Hotel Salzburg right above the train station. Our family room had a separate living area with a pull out couch for G, a free honor bar, and floor to ceiling windows on three sides of the room. Looking out, we had a perfect view the Festung and most of the Old City. Looking down, we could watch trains pulling in and out of the station. And - breakfast in the rooftop restaurant was outstanding!
Sensory-friendly options near the train station include the Radisson Blu, with an indoor pool, and the Cocoon Salzburg Hauptbahnhof, which has swings in its larger rooms. For a luxurious experience right in the Old City, try the Hotel Sacher Salzburg or the Hotel Goldener Hirsch.
If you rented a car in Munich, it’s better to choose a hotel in Berchtesgaden and take the 840 bus from there into Salzburg Old City. Driving and parking are challenging in the Old City!