My husband and I are older parents of a teen girl with autism. We love to travel as a family, planning trips that are sensory-friendly for our daughter G and fun for all of us.
Our posts are useful for any family traveling with children, especially if someone in your family doesn't like waiting in line or being around loud noises. We share extra details about sensory and safety considerations at popular destinations so you know what to expect and can prepare in advance.
The first big road trip our family took was to Arizona, including the Grand Canyon, several years ago when G was just eight years old.
We eased into our trip with four slow-paced days in Sedona, then continued on to the Grand Canyon before heading farther east to Antelope Canyon and Monument Valley. Here's what we saw, and what we did, in Navajo country.
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Antelope Canyon: More Than Just the Photo Op
Antelope Canyon is one of the most photographed places in the American Southwest, and for good reason. The sculpted sandstone walls and dramatic light were every bit as spectacular as we had expected.
Because Antelope Canyon sits on Navajo land, visitors must tour it with an authorized Navajo guide. Ours did more than point out the famous rock formations and light beams. He also shared the canyon's spiritual significance in Navajo tradition, explaining how water and light connect this place to the larger cycles of life.
Exploring the Canyon: Upper vs. Lower
There are actually two distinct sections: Upper and Lower Antelope Canyon.
We chose to tour Upper Antelope Canyon, which has a flat, sandy path through the canyon itself. Lower Antelope Canyon is narrower and more winding, with steep stairs and ladders to navigate. Upper was the better fit for our family, but each canyon offers a different experience.
Despite the steady stream of tour groups (usually 10 to 12 people each), the canyon never felt chaotic or overcrowded. Guides pulse groups through at scheduled intervals, and the natural twists and turns of the canyon walls hide other visitors from view.
A Hint of What Was to Come...
As we walked through, our guide pointed out a distinct water line high above us—about 30 feet over our heads—left by a flash flood from a rainstorm just two weeks prior.
Hold on to that image. It comes back later in this story.
Planning Ahead
If visiting Antelope Canyon is on your bucket list, I strongly recommend booking two nights in Page. Having that extra buffer day gives you a second chance if weather closes the canyon. Plus, there is plenty to do in the Lake Powell area to fill the time.
If you only have one day, make sure to have a Plan B ready. Our backup was a visit to the Glen Canyon Dam, although we likely would have opted for late checkout and a swim at the hotel instead. (Fortunately, the weather cooperated and we didn't need either!)
Lunch at a Gas Station
Princess Twilight Sparkle, G’s pink plastic pony and our most loyal travel companion, is a vegetarian, so she didn’t try the barbecue. All the more for the rest of us!
After the canyon, we stopped at Big John's Texas BBQ for an early lunch. It had caught our eye on the way to Antelope Canyon, and it was even better up close. The restaurant is in a repurposed gas station, with 1950s pumps standing right beside the outdoor tables. The old station's shade roof still covers the seating, so we ate in the shade, surrounded by vintage charm and the smell of smoked meat.
Out on Lake Powell
After lunch, we headed to Antelope Point Marina on Lake Powell and boarded a boat tour through narrow passages between towering sandstone cliffs. G loved it. We sat back, soaked in the views and the breeze, and a canopy overhead kept us out of the sun. After a morning on foot in the canyon, it was a low-stress way to keep the adventure going.
We wrapped up here at about 3 PM, and started our drive to Monument Valley, about 2 hours east.
A Note on Horseshoe Bend
No trip to Page is complete without a mention of Horseshoe Bend, the famous bend in the Colorado River.
To see Horseshoe Bend from above, you park in a paid lot and walk about 1.5 miles round-trip to the overlook. The mostly level, stroller-friendly trail has a hardened surface, with very little shade along the way. There are railings at the main viewing platform, but not along the trail, and parts of the rim beyond the platform are unfenced.
That makes the walk a poor choice for anyone afraid of heights or uneasy near edges, and for families with kids who can't be counted on to stay away from a drop. We checked all three boxes. This trail wasn’t for us! If you'd prefer a water-based adventure, guided kayaking trips on the Colorado River offer a different way to experience this dramatic scenery.
A Storm Rolls In at Monument Valley
When we were just a few miles from Monument Valley, a massive rainstorm came out of nowhere. The rain was so intense that 5 MPH was as fast as we felt safe driving on a completely empty highway. I couldn't help but think about that water line back in Antelope Canyon.
The storm lasted about 20 minutes and ended just as we pulled up to The View Hotel, which is run by the Navajo Nation inside Monument Valley. We had a family cabin right at the edge of the property, with an unobstructed sunrise view of the monuments. We had barely set down our bags when a tremendous rainbow appeared. We were definitely in the right place, at the right time!
Our Cabin, and Two Things Worth Mentioning
The family cabin came equipped with child-sized bunk beds built into a closet, perfect for a kid who wants a little space of her own. G took one look and decided the big bed was better, so her daddy spent the night squeezed into the undersized bunk.
In the bathroom, a small sign asked us to keep showers short and conserve water. It reminded guests that many people in the Navajo Nation live without running water. After a day spent marveling at what water had carved, it was a quiet, sobering note.
Dinner was at The View Restaurant, a large, diner-style place and the only dining option on the property. No alcohol is served, so if you want a cocktail, plan ahead and pack it for your room. The gift shop is great, with plenty of Navajo-made items.
This Is What We Came For
We half-expected to see John Wayne come riding out of the rocks on horseback!
Sunrise the next morning was amazing. We sat on our cabin porch and marveled at the buttes and monuments gleaming in shades of red and orange. After breakfast, we spent an hour on a self-drive tour of the monuments area. The road here was dirt and gravel, fine for our rental SUV. If you’re in a small car, a guided tour might be more practical. Also note that since Monument Valley is on Navajo land, so your National Park Pass won’t work here. At the time of this publication, admission to the Monument Valley road is $15 for the vehicle, plus $10 per person over the age of 12.
Our next planned stop was Petrified Forest National Park, about 2.5 hours away. With a few extra hours of driving, we could add the Four Corners, the one spot in the country where four states meet. We went for it.
Was the detour worth it? That's the story for my next post.
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